Tuesday 16 June 2009

End




Finally the excess wadding was trimed off and the end can fixed in place.


Really pleased with the pipes now, they look and sound great.

Technical bit







next thing to consider was how to fix the end can back in place.


I decided to replace the pop rivets with stainless 5mm domed cap head screws. I made 3 plates drilled and tapped to go inside the end can for the screws to fix into.
The plates can be held in place with tape during assembly untill the screws are in, the tape will burn away later.

Pushing home


The fiber glass gets everywhere and itches like mad, wear gloves and a particle mask.
Pushed the pipe and packing home. Made sure the collar located nicely over the stub in the inlet can.

packing



Before the packing can be fitted the perf pipe had to be cut to the exact length. Not too long that the end can can't be pushed home not to short that pipe is insecure, about 2mm of end float.


Next job was to wrap the pipe with stainless steel wool, this will prevent the fibre glass from being blown out. Once thats's in place the top quality fibre glass wadding was wrapped (£25) enough to fill the can.

Monday 15 June 2009

End cone

The perf pipe is a little loose inside the end cone outlet so some packing is required. I rolled a band of 1.6mm stainless into a band small enough to fit inside the outlet. The perf pipe will now fit inside nice and tight.

Perforated pipe


I bought 2 lengths of 38mm perforated stainless steel pipe each 600mm long (£50). This pipe is too small to fit over the 45mm stub in the inlet cone but just small enough to fit inside the outlet of the end cone.
I made a steel band which would slide over the inlet stub and then welded it to the perforated pipe.

Sunday 14 June 2009

Hard part

Now comes the hard part.
The end cones are beautifully made from top quality double tough stainless the only way to remove the resricter is in pieces. Cut as much of the small bore pipe away as pos to gain access to the flange which joins it to the end cone.
Drill a ring of 5mm holes around the flange as close together as pos. The remaining material joining the two can then be cut with a sharp chisel. Hey presto a clear path for gas flow.