End

Finally the excess wadding was trimed off and the end can fixed in place.

Really pleased with the pipes now, they look and sound great.

Technical bit

next thing to consider was how to fix the end can back in place.

I decided to replace the pop rivets with stainless 5mm domed cap head screws. I made 3 plates drilled and tapped to go inside the end can for the screws to fix into.

The plates can be held in place with tape during assembly untill the screws are in, the tape will burn away later.

Pushing home

The fiber glass gets everywhere and itches like mad, wear gloves and a particle mask.

Pushed the pipe and packing home. Made sure the collar located nicely over the stub in the inlet can.

packing

Before the packing can be fitted the perf pipe had to be cut to the exact length. Not too long that the end can can't be pushed home not to short that pipe is insecure, about 2mm of end float.

Next job was to wrap the pipe with stainless steel wool, this will prevent the fibre glass from being blown out. Once thats's in place the top quality fibre glass wadding was wrapped (£25) enough to fill the can.

End cone

The perf pipe is a little loose inside the end cone outlet so some packing is required. I rolled a band of 1.6mm stainless into a band small enough to fit inside the outlet. The perf pipe will now fit inside nice and tight.

Perforated pipe

I bought 2 lengths of 38mm perforated stainless steel pipe each 600mm long (£50). This pipe is too small to fit over the 45mm stub in the inlet cone but just small enough to fit inside the outlet of the end cone.

I made a steel band which would slide over the inlet stub and then welded it to the perforated pipe.

Hard part

Now comes the hard part.

The end cones are beautifully made from top quality double tough stainless the only way to remove the resricter is in pieces. Cut as much of the small bore pipe away as pos to gain access to the flange which joins it to the end cone.

Drill a ring of 5mm holes around the flange as close together as pos. The remaining material joining the two can then be cut with a sharp chisel. Hey presto a clear path for gas flow.

Baffles

Once the end cone's out remove the 2 screws half way along the silencer body and pull out the stock baffles.

Restricter removal

After removing the cans from the bike the first job was to split the end cones from the main silencer body.

These top quality cans are made with the finest aluminium and stainless steel components and all tools/cutters must be top drawer.

The rivets are stainless and must be drilled out, i used a cobalt drill and still had to sharpen it half way through.

Once the rivets were gone the end cones could be pulled out and the restricter revealed.

KTM Duke 2 exhaust mod's

I've just finished derestricting the standard exhausts on my 02 Ktm Duke 2, they look fantastic and the bike finally looks and sounds like a super moto should.
In the following blogs i'm going to describe what i've done.